Supercharger Problems
In this section I'll attempt to detail every last little detail about the supercharger install on my 95 camry. I'll put them in the following format:
- Problem short description
- Problem caused by......
- Problem resolved by.....
This should be a pretty simple format for showing the information you are all dying to know. :)
- Low Idle
- Gen3 1mzfe ECU isn't smart enough to use the IAC (idle air control) valve to control idle as well as the gen4 does, so the added load of the s/c dragged down the idle.
- Adjust throttle stop screw AND the throttle position sensor. Requires the use of an OBD-II scan tool so you can measure throttle position while adjusting the sensor.
- Engine stalling when turning on A/C
- Caused by the loss of the A/C idle-up solenoid - there's nowhere to connect it on the s/c since the gen4 controls A/C idle-up via the IAC valve. Idling up the engine to cure the low idle cured this most of the way, but with the dynamic tensioner, the idle comes down low enough to cause the tensioner to start bouncing, causing the belt to hop and make some nasty noises every time the a/c comes on at idle.
- The solenoid really should be left inline. It's really not that difficult, it just involves creative use of vaccuum tees and hoses. This was partially cured by the first item above, but completely cured once I finished reconnecting all the vaccuum lines using tees and new pieces of hose.
- EGR system doesn't fit
- Gen4 and Gen3 EGR systems are rather different. Gen3's just plain doesn't fit on the s/c, and a gen4 system cannot be retrofitted (ECU handles it in a completely different manner). It's not a big deal anyway, and EGR can possibly heat up your intake charge, which is bad for a force-induced motor. The 3.4L trucks don't even HAVE an EGR system most of the time, which may be why they have fewer problems.
- I ended up having my rear header welded shut where the EGR used to connect, and I made a gasket with no center hole to seal the EGR opening on the s/c manifold. I left the upper part of the EGR valve on there for two reasons - 1) to hold the gasket in place, and 2) to pass a quick visual under-hood emissions inspection. Does the car actually pass emissions? I don't know - I don't live in an emissions county anymore. But theoretically, it should. Last year, before I installed the s/c, I did have to put my car through an emissions test, and it passed with flying colors. I haven't altered my catalytic convertor, so I should still pass. My car doesn't smoke, and doesn't smell like unburned gasoline or rotten eggs, so I should be good to go.
- MIL (Check engine light) comes on when removing EGR system
- The ECU expects to see an EGR temperature at the EGR temp probe, located in the EGR valve. Since the EGR system has been blocked off, It's seeing colder temperatures than it expects, so it tries to open the valve. When opening the valve doesn't do anything, it thinks something's broken, so it sets the "EGR flow insufficient detected" DTC.
- This is an easy enough fix. Unplug the EGR temp sensor and insert a 1/2 watt, 10Kohm resistor into the harness end of the plug. What this does is to tell the ECU that the EGR temp is about 210 degrees farenheit, which is right where it likes it, so the ECU says "OK, I'm happy, I don't need to do anything to the EGR valve." And thus, you don't get any EGR DTCs.
- Nowhere to connect power steering vent/sense hoses
- There are two hoses coming from the power steering rack which originally connected to the upper intake manifold. One is a vaccuum reference to provide power assist at high vaccuum (low speeds) and to cut power assist at low vaccuum (high speeds), while the other is a simple vent to allow the vapors produced in normal power steering operation to be burned in the combustion chamber by reinjecting them into the intake stream.
- I have the sense hose hooked up to one of the connectors under the boost cut actuator, and the other is tee-d into the vacuum lines i added for the a/c idle up solenoid. These all end up at one of the vaccuum ports on top of the s/c near the throttle body.
- Brake booster vaccuum hose doesn't reach
- Gen4's brake booster connects in almost the same location as it does on the s/c, but on gen3, it connects to that metal tube, runs across the firewall to the passenger side, and connects to the manifold there.
- You can't re-use any of the gen3 brake booster hoses here; they're not long enough. Just cut a new piece of hose - I used some of the hose leftover from installing my ATF cooler. Doesn't look as pretty as it might if it had been a gen4 OE hose, but it's just another hose... they all look the same anyway... Just make sure you keep the check valve inline if your car has one!
- EBC incompatible w/ A/T ECU
- Gen3 and Gen4 A/T ECUs are wired up in a VERY similar manner, but the gen3 trans uses different signals for shifting from the gen4, therefore you cannot hook up the 2 shift solenoid wires from the EBC. Properly connected in an automatic gen4, the EBC will cut boost in first, during shifts, and at 6500 RPM. In a 5-speed, it only cuts boost at 6500.
- Connect the EBC as if your car is a 5-speed. This results in having boost in first (which kicks ass once the ECU finally decides to go into open loop) but also results in having boost between shifts. This can't be good for the tranny - it wasn't designed to take that kinda power, and TRD had to have a reason to design that little controller to do that.
- EBC - Boost during shifts
- As described above, the EBC isn't compatible with the gen3's automatic tranny ECU. Boost during shifts could potentially destroy some of the clutches in the a/t, which means costly rebuild of the tranny.
- Current solution: let go of the gas pedal at about 5900 RPM so that it shifts while under vaccuum instead of under boost. The problem with this method is that if you want to run the gears (like in a drag race), you run the chance of getting back on the gas too fast, before it finishes shifting, which can cause more damage to the tranny than shifting under boost will. The other disadvantage to this is that you don't get consistent 1/4 mile times since lifting off the gas just before a shift can make the tranny less predictable than it normally is.
- Long-term solution: Ditch the slushbox (automatic) and put in a 5-speed. I'm working on doing this myself, especially since Ratko of TTCC did the 5-speed swap in his 94 v6 coupe (same engine as mine) without much trouble. I've wanted to put a 5spd into my car since I originally bought it back in 1999... Just didn't have the faith in myself to do it, but now I've got that "go for broke" attitude about my car. :)
- Blown knock sensors
- I was stupid and hit the rev-limiter in first gear (playing around in the rain with shifter in L) and popped the knock sensor.
- Don't be stupid. Knock sensors are about $100 each (there are two). It's also a good idea to replace the knock sensor wiring harness, coolant bypass hose, and a buncha gaskets while you're in there replacing the knock sensors. It adds up quick, so be careful.
- Nose drive leaking oil
- TRD claims a little oil seepage during break-in is normal. Problem is, mine never stopped leaking till about 18k miles later, at which time it started making a rather nasty rattling noise at light throttle acceleration. My guess is that all the oil leaked out, and the supercharger was running dry, slowly tearing itself apart.
- TRD apparently knows about this, because when I called in to make a warranty claim, and gave them the s/c's serial number, the guy said something along the lines of "oh, that's one of the old kazuma ones. yeah, we'll send you a new one." So now I have a new supercharger complete with the new dynamic tensioner.
- Can't fit 3/8" ratchet into hole on new dynamic tensioner
- Gen3's a/c lines are in a different place - in the way of this hole
- A 3/4" wrench fits on the end of the tensioner. While it's not as nice as a ratchet would be, it works.
- Alternator pivot bolt frozen
- This problem is not unique to my install - it seems all the 1mzfe supercharged owners have this problem. This is because the bolt, which is made of brass, threads into an aluminum nut on the other end. Over time, the two different metals corrode because of galvanic current, and just about weld themselves together. I imagine this is much worse where you see salt on the roads in the winter. Thankfully, I don't have to deal with salty roads in Houston.
- MAKE SURE you put some anti-sieze on the threads of the alternator pivot bolt before installing it to help prevent this corrosion. You'll thank me down the road when it comes time to replace the timing belt or alternator, because you end up destroying the bolt and damaging the idler plate removing a frozen bolt due to the fact that it's a flush mount allen-head bolt, and you can't just put vice grips on it and rip it out that way, and there's no room to get a drill in there and drill it out - the bolt is about 4" long!
That should be just about everything. If I remember something else or come across anything new, I'll update this page. I last updated it on June 19, 2002.
If you still have questions or comments, feel free to get in touch with me.
jason@gibson99.com
ICQ: 6048664 - Annon(Gibson99)
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